Begonia originated in the rain forest in South America. The name ‘begonia’ comes from Michel Begon (1638-1710) an amateur French botanist who first collected
them. These flowers are grown from tuberous roots. New growth buds appear on the base of the old stem, at the point where it joins the tuberous root. Begonia like cool, moist, lightly shaded places where the soil is rich and well supplied with humus.Flower heads have one large double male flower in the center, with two single female flowers at the sides. Flowering is stimulated by long day lengths, common during the summer in Alaska.
Selasa, 13 Mei 2008
Dahlia (Compositae)
Dahlia are an important group of tuberous-
rooted plants of the family Compositae
(sunflower family). The forms used in gardens today originated from Mexico, Guatemala and Central America. The Spanish travelers brought a handful of tubers back to Madrid in the late 18th century.
The Swedish botanist Andreas Dahl, named them. In 1826, English plantsmen had hybridized nearly 60 kinds. Today there are over 1700 recognized varieties.
Dahlia are among plants that have evolved underground tuberous roots to store food and survive through adverse conditions. The first year a dahlia plant is grown from a seed, it will develop a branched tuberous root system that can be easily overwintered in cool storage.
The tuberous root can be replanted whole or split, making several plants. Each one of the tuberous roots attached to part of the stem will produce buds, from which new plants can grow. The buds will be formed at stem end or where the old stem was.
Dahlia thrive best in well-drained soil. They like plenty of water after beginning to bloom, but like roses and peonies, seem to resent “wet feet
rooted plants of the family Compositae
(sunflower family). The forms used in gardens today originated from Mexico, Guatemala and Central America. The Spanish travelers brought a handful of tubers back to Madrid in the late 18th century.
The Swedish botanist Andreas Dahl, named them. In 1826, English plantsmen had hybridized nearly 60 kinds. Today there are over 1700 recognized varieties.
Dahlia are among plants that have evolved underground tuberous roots to store food and survive through adverse conditions. The first year a dahlia plant is grown from a seed, it will develop a branched tuberous root system that can be easily overwintered in cool storage.
The tuberous root can be replanted whole or split, making several plants. Each one of the tuberous roots attached to part of the stem will produce buds, from which new plants can grow. The buds will be formed at stem end or where the old stem was.
Dahlia thrive best in well-drained soil. They like plenty of water after beginning to bloom, but like roses and peonies, seem to resent “wet feet
Overwintering fuchsia & geranium
The contained plant can be overwintered in any dark, cool place that is 40° F and frost free. The soil must not be allowed to dry out.
Bring the plant indoors before the first frost is expected. Pruning the plant back prior to overwintering will reestablish a centrally located scaffold for new growth.
This will result in the formation of a full, compact plant when growth resumes. Remove
all the green and red stems, leaving the tan hardwood. Remove all the leaves. Water to keep the plant slightly moist but not wet during the winter.
Early next spring, perhaps as early as mid-to-late February, new growth should start appearing. When this happens,
increase moisture and return it to the growing conditions the plant prefers increased light and warmer temperatures.
When new growth starts, it will often produce single stem branches. If left to continue, this would result in a sparse, leggy plant. Pinching the growing
tips early will promote branching, and the result will be a plant that fills and covers the container.
There are various ways to overwinter geranium. One method is to pull plants from the garden and remove as much soil as possible. Hang the plants upside down in a plastic bag with holes, containing
wet peat moss, in a cool location.
They can also be left in the pot and treated like fuchsia.
Bring the plant indoors before the first frost is expected. Pruning the plant back prior to overwintering will reestablish a centrally located scaffold for new growth.
This will result in the formation of a full, compact plant when growth resumes. Remove
all the green and red stems, leaving the tan hardwood. Remove all the leaves. Water to keep the plant slightly moist but not wet during the winter.
Early next spring, perhaps as early as mid-to-late February, new growth should start appearing. When this happens,
increase moisture and return it to the growing conditions the plant prefers increased light and warmer temperatures.
When new growth starts, it will often produce single stem branches. If left to continue, this would result in a sparse, leggy plant. Pinching the growing
tips early will promote branching, and the result will be a plant that fills and covers the container.
There are various ways to overwinter geranium. One method is to pull plants from the garden and remove as much soil as possible. Hang the plants upside down in a plastic bag with holes, containing
wet peat moss, in a cool location.
They can also be left in the pot and treated like fuchsia.
Geranium
(Pelargonium sp.)
Garden geranium are not really a geranium
but a Pelargonium. They originated from South Africa. Geranium are a favorite
plant for gardeners all over the world. Most plants are propagated from stem cuttings which easily root in water or moist sand. The seeds are difficult to germinate
because of a hard seed coat. Scarification
or nicking the seed coat greatly speeds germination.
Garden geranium are not really a geranium
but a Pelargonium. They originated from South Africa. Geranium are a favorite
plant for gardeners all over the world. Most plants are propagated from stem cuttings which easily root in water or moist sand. The seeds are difficult to germinate
because of a hard seed coat. Scarification
or nicking the seed coat greatly speeds germination.
Fuchsia
There are more than one hundred species of fuchsia, comprised mainly of perennial
trees and shrubs. These plants are all members of the plant family Onagraceae; the evening primrose family.
The fuchsia is very adaptable to much of Alaska’s outdoor growing conditions. It prefers a daytime temperature of 60 to 70° F and a nighttime temperature of 50 to 65° F. The cool night temperatures are especially important during the early growth of the plant when new growth is pinched and flower buds are developing. It also does very well in filtered sunlight or semi-sunny
conditions often associated with locations along buildings where hanging baskets are placed for aesthetic appeal.
A continuous blooming hanging basket of fuchsia provides a great amount of beauty to its surroundings. The proud owner will often want to have this growth and beauty available from the same plant the following season.
trees and shrubs. These plants are all members of the plant family Onagraceae; the evening primrose family.
The fuchsia is very adaptable to much of Alaska’s outdoor growing conditions. It prefers a daytime temperature of 60 to 70° F and a nighttime temperature of 50 to 65° F. The cool night temperatures are especially important during the early growth of the plant when new growth is pinched and flower buds are developing. It also does very well in filtered sunlight or semi-sunny
conditions often associated with locations along buildings where hanging baskets are placed for aesthetic appeal.
A continuous blooming hanging basket of fuchsia provides a great amount of beauty to its surroundings. The proud owner will often want to have this growth and beauty available from the same plant the following season.
General growing requirements
Maintaining a vigorous, healthy plant during the growing season is one of the first requirements necessary to ensure that the plant can survive the long period
of rest or dormancy. A perennial plant must be able to produce sufficient
growth and food reserves if it is to maintain itself and put forth new growth again the following spring. During the growing season, fertilize weekly with a weak complete
soluble fertilizer high in phosphorous
such as 15-30-15.
These flowering plants may continue to produce
an abundance of flowers until frost stops all further growth and activity.
In preparation for the approaching season’s
end, you should cease fertilizer applications
at least two weeks before you anticipate bringing it indoors. Watering should be reduced to a great extent, but not to the point where the root system will die.
of rest or dormancy. A perennial plant must be able to produce sufficient
growth and food reserves if it is to maintain itself and put forth new growth again the following spring. During the growing season, fertilize weekly with a weak complete
soluble fertilizer high in phosphorous
such as 15-30-15.
These flowering plants may continue to produce
an abundance of flowers until frost stops all further growth and activity.
In preparation for the approaching season’s
end, you should cease fertilizer applications
at least two weeks before you anticipate bringing it indoors. Watering should be reduced to a great extent, but not to the point where the root system will die.
Growing and Overwintering Fuchsia, Geranium, Dahlia
Fuchsia, geranium, dahlia and tuberous begonia are perennials that will not overwinter
outside in Alaska. These plants are native to much warmer climates. Special care and an indoor overwintering site are required to keep these plants from year to year in Alaska. The extra work does have its rewards: each of these plants have large showy flowers.
outside in Alaska. These plants are native to much warmer climates. Special care and an indoor overwintering site are required to keep these plants from year to year in Alaska. The extra work does have its rewards: each of these plants have large showy flowers.
Senin, 28 April 2008
Rose Cultivars
The American Rose Society, in conjunction with rose
breeders, has established facilities for testing and evaluating
rose cultivars prior to release to the public. Roses are tested
for 2 years under differing soil and climatic conditions in the
United States. The plant material is scored for vigor, hardiness,
disease resistance, foliage, flower production, bud and
flower form, opening and final color, fragrance, overall value
and novelty. There are now 26 test gardens across the United
States consolidated under the name of Official All-America
Rose Selections Test Gardens (AARS). The Renisch Rose
Garden in Topeka’s Gage Park is one of the sites. Selections
are made annually to receive the AARS award in categories
for hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora and miniature roses. In
some years, no roses are selected for the award (see Table 1,
listing past winners). Table 2 lists selected cultivars recommended
by 55 consulting rosarians in the central district of the
American Rose Society (the central district includes Kansas).
breeders, has established facilities for testing and evaluating
rose cultivars prior to release to the public. Roses are tested
for 2 years under differing soil and climatic conditions in the
United States. The plant material is scored for vigor, hardiness,
disease resistance, foliage, flower production, bud and
flower form, opening and final color, fragrance, overall value
and novelty. There are now 26 test gardens across the United
States consolidated under the name of Official All-America
Rose Selections Test Gardens (AARS). The Renisch Rose
Garden in Topeka’s Gage Park is one of the sites. Selections
are made annually to receive the AARS award in categories
for hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora and miniature roses. In
some years, no roses are selected for the award (see Table 1,
listing past winners). Table 2 lists selected cultivars recommended
by 55 consulting rosarians in the central district of the
American Rose Society (the central district includes Kansas).
Insects rose
Insects. Among the insects that attack roses, aphids are the
major problem. The typical aphid is small, soft-bodied, pearshaped
and comes in an assortment of colors—black, green,
pink, red, yellow, lavender, brown or gray. The nymphs may
differ in color from the wingless adults. Damage caused by
aphids is the result of their sucking feeding. All aphids secrete
“honeydew,” a sugary deposit that attracts ants and becomes
the medium for sooty mold growth. The result of the damage
is loss of plant vigor and sometimes stunting and deforming
buds and flowers, and curling or puckering of leaves. One of
the more serious problems associated with the aphid is its role
as a vector for mosaic and other virus diseases. Aphids are
easily controlled with several contact and stomach poison
insecticides.
Other possible insect pests include assorted caterpillars,
rose chaffer, rose curculio, Fuller beetle, spotted cucumber
beetle and bristly rose slug. These all can be controlled with
pesticides. Scales may occur on roses and are best controlled
by pruning out infested canes.
Pruning
angle
1/4” above
healthy bud
major problem. The typical aphid is small, soft-bodied, pearshaped
and comes in an assortment of colors—black, green,
pink, red, yellow, lavender, brown or gray. The nymphs may
differ in color from the wingless adults. Damage caused by
aphids is the result of their sucking feeding. All aphids secrete
“honeydew,” a sugary deposit that attracts ants and becomes
the medium for sooty mold growth. The result of the damage
is loss of plant vigor and sometimes stunting and deforming
buds and flowers, and curling or puckering of leaves. One of
the more serious problems associated with the aphid is its role
as a vector for mosaic and other virus diseases. Aphids are
easily controlled with several contact and stomach poison
insecticides.
Other possible insect pests include assorted caterpillars,
rose chaffer, rose curculio, Fuller beetle, spotted cucumber
beetle and bristly rose slug. These all can be controlled with
pesticides. Scales may occur on roses and are best controlled
by pruning out infested canes.
Pruning
angle
1/4” above
healthy bud
Powdery mildew rose
Powdery mildew, the third common rose disease, occurs
during early summer and early autumn when warm, humid
days (64 to 75°F) coupled with cool nights (50 to 55°F)
enhance germination of powdery mildew spores. Prolonged
rainy periods are not favorable for spore germination because
it is inhibited by standing water. The disease first appears as a
whitish-gray, powdery coating at the tips of canes. Young
leaves often become culled, distorted and dwarfed. With
severe infections, tip dieback can occur.
Controls include sanitation and fungicidal sprays. The
fungus is wind-borne and sprays will provide better coverage
than dusts. The spores will overwinter on fallen leaves and
inside stems and bud scales.
Other diseases that can be a problem are Botrytis blight,
crown gall (a bacterial disease), rust, spot anthracnose, and
several viral diseases including witches’ broom, mosaic, and
spring stunt.
during early summer and early autumn when warm, humid
days (64 to 75°F) coupled with cool nights (50 to 55°F)
enhance germination of powdery mildew spores. Prolonged
rainy periods are not favorable for spore germination because
it is inhibited by standing water. The disease first appears as a
whitish-gray, powdery coating at the tips of canes. Young
leaves often become culled, distorted and dwarfed. With
severe infections, tip dieback can occur.
Controls include sanitation and fungicidal sprays. The
fungus is wind-borne and sprays will provide better coverage
than dusts. The spores will overwinter on fallen leaves and
inside stems and bud scales.
Other diseases that can be a problem are Botrytis blight,
crown gall (a bacterial disease), rust, spot anthracnose, and
several viral diseases including witches’ broom, mosaic, and
spring stunt.
Stem cankers rose
Stem cankers appear as small lesions on the woody tissue
of canes. Results are poor growth of the affected area and
eventual death of the cane. Stem canker is caused by several
different parasitic fungi entering the stem through wounds or
dying tissue. Brand canker appears as black sooty patches that
develop during winter on climbing roses and those covered for
winter protection. Cracking bark is common. The best control
is pruning out the infected canes. Brown canker appears as
light brown lesions with deep purple margins. This fungus will
also attack foliage and buds on some cultivars. It is not
common if a fungicide program is followed for control of
other rose diseases. Stem canker appears as black spots, often
at the point of mechanical damage. It is somewhat reddish and
becomes brown, sunken and cracked with age. Cankers often
appear on plants weakened due to black spot.
The most effective means of preventing the problem is to
maintain a preventive fungicide spray program to control other
fungal diseases. Should cankers appear, prune the cane well
below the canker with clean pruning shears.
of canes. Results are poor growth of the affected area and
eventual death of the cane. Stem canker is caused by several
different parasitic fungi entering the stem through wounds or
dying tissue. Brand canker appears as black sooty patches that
develop during winter on climbing roses and those covered for
winter protection. Cracking bark is common. The best control
is pruning out the infected canes. Brown canker appears as
light brown lesions with deep purple margins. This fungus will
also attack foliage and buds on some cultivars. It is not
common if a fungicide program is followed for control of
other rose diseases. Stem canker appears as black spots, often
at the point of mechanical damage. It is somewhat reddish and
becomes brown, sunken and cracked with age. Cankers often
appear on plants weakened due to black spot.
The most effective means of preventing the problem is to
maintain a preventive fungicide spray program to control other
fungal diseases. Should cankers appear, prune the cane well
below the canker with clean pruning shears.
Black spot rose
Black spot symptoms are irregular black spots often
surrounded by a yellow halo. As infection progresses, leaves
eventually drop. The disease spreads quickly from one plant to
the next so it is important to remove infected leaves as soon as
they show. Leaf drop contributes to the spread of the disease
by harboring spores and results in weakening the plant and
increasing susceptibility to winter injury, drought, dieback andse
stem cankers. Flower production will be reduced if the disease
is allowed to spread.
Prevention is the best control for black spot. Leaf litter
should be removed from the area since the spores will overwinter
on infected leaves. Protective fungicidal sprays are
advised. The fungus grows beneath the protection of the leaf
cuticle, making control difficult once the spores have germinated.
Weekly sprays from the time the plant leafs out in the
spring until autumn are advised. Spray both the upper and low
leaf surfaces. Proper pruning will remove spores overwintered
in small cane lesions
surrounded by a yellow halo. As infection progresses, leaves
eventually drop. The disease spreads quickly from one plant to
the next so it is important to remove infected leaves as soon as
they show. Leaf drop contributes to the spread of the disease
by harboring spores and results in weakening the plant and
increasing susceptibility to winter injury, drought, dieback andse
stem cankers. Flower production will be reduced if the disease
is allowed to spread.
Prevention is the best control for black spot. Leaf litter
should be removed from the area since the spores will overwinter
on infected leaves. Protective fungicidal sprays are
advised. The fungus grows beneath the protection of the leaf
cuticle, making control difficult once the spores have germinated.
Weekly sprays from the time the plant leafs out in the
spring until autumn are advised. Spray both the upper and low
leaf surfaces. Proper pruning will remove spores overwintered
in small cane lesions
Insects and Diseases
Diseases. Sanitation is the best method of reducing
problems that can arise once roses are established. Always
remove prunings, leaf litter and faded flowers; use clean
mulch; keep beds free of weeds; and, of utmost importance,
use clean pruning equipment to reduce transmission of
diseases. The main rose diseases are black spot, stem canker
and powdery mildew.
problems that can arise once roses are established. Always
remove prunings, leaf litter and faded flowers; use clean
mulch; keep beds free of weeds; and, of utmost importance,
use clean pruning equipment to reduce transmission of
diseases. The main rose diseases are black spot, stem canker
and powdery mildew.
Pruning bush roses
Pruning bush roses. The steps followed when pruning
bush-type and shrubs roses are: (1) remove all dead wood
down to the crown or 1 inch into healthy green canes; (2)
prune out all signs of canker; (3) remove all weak, spindly or
deformed growth (rule of thumb is to remove anything smaller
than the thickness of a pencil); (4) remove all canes growing
toward the center of the plant; (5) remove all suckers down to
the crown even if it means moving soil aside; and (6) finally,
thin out remaining healthy canes to the desired shape and
height.
Pruning climbers. Everblooming climbers should be
pruned in the spring after danger of frost. Spring-flowering
climbers are pruned after they have flowered. Large-flowered
climbers and climbing hybrid teas are treated in a similar
manner to the bush-type roses. Ramblers and other vigorous
growing climbers are best pruned after they have flowered for
the first time in the spring and occasionally will need to be
shaped once or twice through the summer. Regardless of the
type of climbing rose, follow the first five steps listed for
bush-type roses. Most climbing roses produce canes that
remain healthy for about 3 to 4 years, making it necessary to
remove older growth each season. The canes are cut to a
height of 18 to 30 inches to help shape the plant. Remove old,
faded flowers to encourage subsequent flushes of flowers on
the everblooming types of climbing roses.
This is easily done by picking off the old flower clusters,
leaving the leaves on the short flower-bearing lateral stems.
bush-type and shrubs roses are: (1) remove all dead wood
down to the crown or 1 inch into healthy green canes; (2)
prune out all signs of canker; (3) remove all weak, spindly or
deformed growth (rule of thumb is to remove anything smaller
than the thickness of a pencil); (4) remove all canes growing
toward the center of the plant; (5) remove all suckers down to
the crown even if it means moving soil aside; and (6) finally,
thin out remaining healthy canes to the desired shape and
height.
Pruning climbers. Everblooming climbers should be
pruned in the spring after danger of frost. Spring-flowering
climbers are pruned after they have flowered. Large-flowered
climbers and climbing hybrid teas are treated in a similar
manner to the bush-type roses. Ramblers and other vigorous
growing climbers are best pruned after they have flowered for
the first time in the spring and occasionally will need to be
shaped once or twice through the summer. Regardless of the
type of climbing rose, follow the first five steps listed for
bush-type roses. Most climbing roses produce canes that
remain healthy for about 3 to 4 years, making it necessary to
remove older growth each season. The canes are cut to a
height of 18 to 30 inches to help shape the plant. Remove old,
faded flowers to encourage subsequent flushes of flowers on
the everblooming types of climbing roses.
This is easily done by picking off the old flower clusters,
leaving the leaves on the short flower-bearing lateral stems.
Pruning Practices
Pruning Practices
Pruning is important for maintaining healthy plants. Proper
pruning will aid in retaining excellent flower quality and size
as well as overall vigor. Pruning removes diseased and insectinfested
growth, weak growth, suckers from rootstocks, and
old canes. The best time to prune roses is in the spring before
new growth appears and after any danger of killing frost. It is
important to use sharp, clean pruning shears. Cleaning the
shears between plants will help reduce transmission of viral
diseases. All cuts should be made at a 45 to 50° angle, about 1⁄4
inch above a healthy bud.
There are three pruning styles, each with a specific
purpose. Heavy or severe pruning is done on well-established,
vigorous plants to produce large, showy flowers. Prune back
to leave three to four healthy canes with three to six eyes per
cane. This normally results in canes that are 6 to 12 inches
above the ground.
Moderate pruning is done on well-established plants. It
will not result in large flowers, but increases production. Prune
to leave five to six healthy canes with at least seven buds per
cane. The stems are pruned back to 12 to 18 inches long.
Light pruning is done to rejuvenate plants after years of
neglect or on newly established plants. Prune to retain about
five to seven canes that are about 18 inches or more in length.
This aids in maintaining maximum photosynthetic area and is
extremely important when rejuvenating rose plants.
Pruning is important for maintaining healthy plants. Proper
pruning will aid in retaining excellent flower quality and size
as well as overall vigor. Pruning removes diseased and insectinfested
growth, weak growth, suckers from rootstocks, and
old canes. The best time to prune roses is in the spring before
new growth appears and after any danger of killing frost. It is
important to use sharp, clean pruning shears. Cleaning the
shears between plants will help reduce transmission of viral
diseases. All cuts should be made at a 45 to 50° angle, about 1⁄4
inch above a healthy bud.
There are three pruning styles, each with a specific
purpose. Heavy or severe pruning is done on well-established,
vigorous plants to produce large, showy flowers. Prune back
to leave three to four healthy canes with three to six eyes per
cane. This normally results in canes that are 6 to 12 inches
above the ground.
Moderate pruning is done on well-established plants. It
will not result in large flowers, but increases production. Prune
to leave five to six healthy canes with at least seven buds per
cane. The stems are pruned back to 12 to 18 inches long.
Light pruning is done to rejuvenate plants after years of
neglect or on newly established plants. Prune to retain about
five to seven canes that are about 18 inches or more in length.
This aids in maintaining maximum photosynthetic area and is
extremely important when rejuvenating rose plants.
Winter protection rose
Winter protection. Kansas gardens need winter protection
since temperatures drop as low as 10 to 15°F for periods of at
least 2 weeks at a time. Roses should be sprayed with a
fungicide first and then covered with loose, well-drained soil
or compost after most of the foliage has dropped. The mound
should be about 8 to l0 inches high. Lay straw or hay over the
soil mound and canes after the first hard freeze to protect the
plant from fluctuating temperatures. Excessively tall canes
should be pruned to a height of 36 inches to prevent being
whipped by strong winter winds. Roses should be covered by
Thanksgiving.
The insulating effect of the mounds often attracts small
rodents that feed on the bark of the canes. Insects and diseases
such as borers, cankers, leaf spots and other fungal diseases
can result from this injury. The biggest problem from winter
protection is mechanical damage to new and old growth when
removing the protection. However, it is better to protect the
plants than lose them from winterkill. Most insects and
diseases can be treated in the spring.
since temperatures drop as low as 10 to 15°F for periods of at
least 2 weeks at a time. Roses should be sprayed with a
fungicide first and then covered with loose, well-drained soil
or compost after most of the foliage has dropped. The mound
should be about 8 to l0 inches high. Lay straw or hay over the
soil mound and canes after the first hard freeze to protect the
plant from fluctuating temperatures. Excessively tall canes
should be pruned to a height of 36 inches to prevent being
whipped by strong winter winds. Roses should be covered by
Thanksgiving.
The insulating effect of the mounds often attracts small
rodents that feed on the bark of the canes. Insects and diseases
such as borers, cankers, leaf spots and other fungal diseases
can result from this injury. The biggest problem from winter
protection is mechanical damage to new and old growth when
removing the protection. However, it is better to protect the
plants than lose them from winterkill. Most insects and
diseases can be treated in the spring.
Fertilizing roses
Fertilizing roses. Fertilization of roses is a must to encourage production of large, vigorous basal canes. A standard fertilization program calls for feeding three times per year using a 5-10-5 or similar analysis fertilizer. The first application should be made prior to bud break, at the same
time as spring pruning. The second application should be during the first flowering period. The third application is a late-season fertilization after the first flush of blooms has
faded and flowering has declined—no later than mid-August. Later fertilization will encourage succulent growth which will not be hardened-off by first frost. Roses are susceptible to iron chlorosis, which results in a light-yellow color on the leaves while the vines remain a
darker green. Iron chlorosis is a result of a lack of available iron to the plant. Iron chelate sprayed on the foliage will restore the green color to the foliage in a few days, but foliar
sprays are not long lasting. Acidify the soil around rose bushes by adding powdered sulfur at the rate of 1 to 2 teaspoons incorporated into the soil.
time as spring pruning. The second application should be during the first flowering period. The third application is a late-season fertilization after the first flush of blooms has
faded and flowering has declined—no later than mid-August. Later fertilization will encourage succulent growth which will not be hardened-off by first frost. Roses are susceptible to iron chlorosis, which results in a light-yellow color on the leaves while the vines remain a
darker green. Iron chlorosis is a result of a lack of available iron to the plant. Iron chelate sprayed on the foliage will restore the green color to the foliage in a few days, but foliar
sprays are not long lasting. Acidify the soil around rose bushes by adding powdered sulfur at the rate of 1 to 2 teaspoons incorporated into the soil.
Planting roses. Roses should be planted in the spring as soon as weather and soil conditions are favorable. Never work the soil while it is wet. When preparing the soil, spade to a
depth of 2 feet and add organic matter and fertilizer. Use 2 pounds of a 5-10-5 or similar analysis fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed. Before planting bareroot rose bushes, remove any
broken or diseased roots and prune the remaining roots to 8 to 10 inches long. Canes should be pruned prior to planting. Remove any thin or weak growth; then thin the plant down to
three or four strong canes, leaving five to seven healthy buds. Dig a hole about 18 inches in diameter by 14 inches deep. Mound the soil at the center and spread the roots over the
mound (see illustration). The graft union should be at or slightly below the final soil line.
Add soil until the hole is two-thirds full. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and make good contact without compacting the soil. Allow the water to drain away, finish filling the hole, and water the plant a second time. Build a soil mound to cover two-thirds of the canes to prevent drying of the young lateral buds while the root system is being
established. When new growth is approximately 1 to 2 inches long, remove the soil from around the plant, being careful not to damage any young growth within the soil mound.
When planting container rose bushes, it is not necessary to do any root pruning. However, the canes should be pruned to remove any weak or diseased growth and any broken canes.
Once the plant is prepared, dig a hole at least 8 inches wider than the root ball and deep enough to plant the rose at the proper depth (graft union at or slightly below the soil line).
Again fill the hole two-thirds full with soil, and water the plant thoroughly. Finish filling the hole and water again. With container roses, it is not necessary to mound the soil since a
root system is already present. It is wise to mulch the soil toprevent rapid soil drying.
depth of 2 feet and add organic matter and fertilizer. Use 2 pounds of a 5-10-5 or similar analysis fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed. Before planting bareroot rose bushes, remove any
broken or diseased roots and prune the remaining roots to 8 to 10 inches long. Canes should be pruned prior to planting. Remove any thin or weak growth; then thin the plant down to
three or four strong canes, leaving five to seven healthy buds. Dig a hole about 18 inches in diameter by 14 inches deep. Mound the soil at the center and spread the roots over the
mound (see illustration). The graft union should be at or slightly below the final soil line.
Add soil until the hole is two-thirds full. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and make good contact without compacting the soil. Allow the water to drain away, finish filling the hole, and water the plant a second time. Build a soil mound to cover two-thirds of the canes to prevent drying of the young lateral buds while the root system is being
established. When new growth is approximately 1 to 2 inches long, remove the soil from around the plant, being careful not to damage any young growth within the soil mound.
When planting container rose bushes, it is not necessary to do any root pruning. However, the canes should be pruned to remove any weak or diseased growth and any broken canes.
Once the plant is prepared, dig a hole at least 8 inches wider than the root ball and deep enough to plant the rose at the proper depth (graft union at or slightly below the soil line).
Again fill the hole two-thirds full with soil, and water the plant thoroughly. Finish filling the hole and water again. With container roses, it is not necessary to mound the soil since a
root system is already present. It is wise to mulch the soil toprevent rapid soil drying.
Rose Culture
Plant selection. Selecting good, healthy plants is important for successful rose growing. Roses are available through catalogs or garden centers for spring planting either as bareroot stock or container plants. Plants should be free of disease and insects; the canes and roots should be thick and healthy, and not cracked, broken or damaged. Bareroot plants should be dormant. If growth has begun, they should be planted immediately. This is not critical with container stock
because there is an established root system for nutrient and water uptake. Locating the rose bed. The rose bed should receive full, direct sunlight for a minimum of 6 hours daily. If shade is
unavoidable, afternoon shade is best. Morning sun is necessary
because there is an established root system for nutrient and water uptake. Locating the rose bed. The rose bed should receive full, direct sunlight for a minimum of 6 hours daily. If shade is
unavoidable, afternoon shade is best. Morning sun is necessary
Polyanthas
Polyanthas. Most rose classifications have absorbed polyanthas into the floribunda class even though the older cultivars are distinctly different. Polyanthas are mostly low growing, continuous-blooming plants, producing large clusters of small flowers.
Heritage. The heritage class is a combination of all the “old” roses that were developed in the nineteenth century. Most are more important in a historical sense than in ahorticultural sense. The principal “old rose” types are Gallica, Damask, Alba, Centifolia (cabbage rose), Moss, Noisette,Bourbon and Musk. The hybrid perpetuals, tea roses and China roses, are from the heritage group of old roses, but their separate classification is often retained because many are still common today.
Shrub roses. This is a miscellaneous group of several wild species, hybrids and cultivars that vary widely botanically and develop large, dense bushes more closely resembling shrubs
used in landscape planting. Most of the shrub roses are vigorous, hardy and resistant to insects and diseases. Their attractive foliage, small flowers and fall seed pods (hips) make
them useful for hedge and screen plantings. Some of the more important and attractive roses in this
class include: Rugosas, Father Hugo rose, Sweetbriers, Nevada, Chestnut, Austrian copper and Kordesii. Tree roses. Tree, or standard, roses are distinctive because
of the form of the plant rather than the type of flower. They are used in formal plantings or to accent a particular part of the garden. Many of the better-known cultivars of bush roses are
available as tree roses. Tree roses are produced by grafting a
bush rose on an upright trunk (standard). The upper graft is difficult to protect during the winter.
Climbing roses. Climbing roses are not botanically true climbing plants since they do not form tendrils for self support. They need to be tied and trained to a trellis, fence, building or other structure. These roses produce long, heavy canes that grow from 8 to 15 feet. Climbers may be everbloomingor spring blooming. Flowers are produced in loose,
open clusters of 5 to 25 blooms and may take 2 years to reach full bloom after planting.
Climbing roses may be classified as climbing hybrid teas, climbing teas, climbing grandifloras, climbing floribundas, climbing polyanthas, large-flowered climbers, pillars, ramblers,
trailing and everblooming. There is much overlapping of
the various classes, and one climber may fit several classes.
Heritage. The heritage class is a combination of all the “old” roses that were developed in the nineteenth century. Most are more important in a historical sense than in ahorticultural sense. The principal “old rose” types are Gallica, Damask, Alba, Centifolia (cabbage rose), Moss, Noisette,Bourbon and Musk. The hybrid perpetuals, tea roses and China roses, are from the heritage group of old roses, but their separate classification is often retained because many are still common today.
Shrub roses. This is a miscellaneous group of several wild species, hybrids and cultivars that vary widely botanically and develop large, dense bushes more closely resembling shrubs
used in landscape planting. Most of the shrub roses are vigorous, hardy and resistant to insects and diseases. Their attractive foliage, small flowers and fall seed pods (hips) make
them useful for hedge and screen plantings. Some of the more important and attractive roses in this
class include: Rugosas, Father Hugo rose, Sweetbriers, Nevada, Chestnut, Austrian copper and Kordesii. Tree roses. Tree, or standard, roses are distinctive because
of the form of the plant rather than the type of flower. They are used in formal plantings or to accent a particular part of the garden. Many of the better-known cultivars of bush roses are
available as tree roses. Tree roses are produced by grafting a
bush rose on an upright trunk (standard). The upper graft is difficult to protect during the winter.
Climbing roses. Climbing roses are not botanically true climbing plants since they do not form tendrils for self support. They need to be tied and trained to a trellis, fence, building or other structure. These roses produce long, heavy canes that grow from 8 to 15 feet. Climbers may be everbloomingor spring blooming. Flowers are produced in loose,
open clusters of 5 to 25 blooms and may take 2 years to reach full bloom after planting.
Climbing roses may be classified as climbing hybrid teas, climbing teas, climbing grandifloras, climbing floribundas, climbing polyanthas, large-flowered climbers, pillars, ramblers,
trailing and everblooming. There is much overlapping of
the various classes, and one climber may fit several classes.
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