Rose Cultivars

The American Rose Society, in conjunction with rose
breeders, has established facilities for testing and evaluating
rose cultivars prior to release to the public. Roses are tested
for 2 years under differing soil and climatic conditions in the
United States. The plant material is scored for vigor, hardiness,
disease resistance, foliage, flower production, bud and
flower form, opening and final color, fragrance, overall value
and novelty. There are now 26 test gardens across the United
States consolidated under the name of Official All-America
Rose Selections Test Gardens (AARS). The Renisch Rose
Garden in Topeka’s Gage Park is one of the sites. Selections
are made annually to receive the AARS award in categories
for hybrid tea, floribunda, grandiflora and miniature roses. In
some years, no roses are selected for the award (see Table 1,
listing past winners). Table 2 lists selected cultivars recommended
by 55 consulting rosarians in the central district of the
American Rose Society (the central district includes Kansas).

Insects rose

Insects. Among the insects that attack roses, aphids are the
major problem. The typical aphid is small, soft-bodied, pearshaped
and comes in an assortment of colors—black, green,
pink, red, yellow, lavender, brown or gray. The nymphs may
differ in color from the wingless adults. Damage caused by
aphids is the result of their sucking feeding. All aphids secrete
“honeydew,” a sugary deposit that attracts ants and becomes
the medium for sooty mold growth. The result of the damage
is loss of plant vigor and sometimes stunting and deforming
buds and flowers, and curling or puckering of leaves. One of
the more serious problems associated with the aphid is its role
as a vector for mosaic and other virus diseases. Aphids are
easily controlled with several contact and stomach poison
insecticides.
Other possible insect pests include assorted caterpillars,
rose chaffer, rose curculio, Fuller beetle, spotted cucumber
beetle and bristly rose slug. These all can be controlled with
pesticides. Scales may occur on roses and are best controlled
by pruning out infested canes.
Pruning
angle
1/4” above
healthy bud

Powdery mildew rose

Powdery mildew, the third common rose disease, occurs
during early summer and early autumn when warm, humid
days (64 to 75°F) coupled with cool nights (50 to 55°F)
enhance germination of powdery mildew spores. Prolonged
rainy periods are not favorable for spore germination because
it is inhibited by standing water. The disease first appears as a
whitish-gray, powdery coating at the tips of canes. Young
leaves often become culled, distorted and dwarfed. With
severe infections, tip dieback can occur.
Controls include sanitation and fungicidal sprays. The
fungus is wind-borne and sprays will provide better coverage
than dusts. The spores will overwinter on fallen leaves and
inside stems and bud scales.
Other diseases that can be a problem are Botrytis blight,
crown gall (a bacterial disease), rust, spot anthracnose, and
several viral diseases including witches’ broom, mosaic, and
spring stunt.

Stem cankers rose

Stem cankers appear as small lesions on the woody tissue
of canes. Results are poor growth of the affected area and
eventual death of the cane. Stem canker is caused by several
different parasitic fungi entering the stem through wounds or
dying tissue. Brand canker appears as black sooty patches that
develop during winter on climbing roses and those covered for
winter protection. Cracking bark is common. The best control
is pruning out the infected canes. Brown canker appears as
light brown lesions with deep purple margins. This fungus will
also attack foliage and buds on some cultivars. It is not
common if a fungicide program is followed for control of
other rose diseases. Stem canker appears as black spots, often
at the point of mechanical damage. It is somewhat reddish and
becomes brown, sunken and cracked with age. Cankers often
appear on plants weakened due to black spot.
The most effective means of preventing the problem is to
maintain a preventive fungicide spray program to control other
fungal diseases. Should cankers appear, prune the cane well
below the canker with clean pruning shears.

Black spot rose

Black spot symptoms are irregular black spots often
surrounded by a yellow halo. As infection progresses, leaves
eventually drop. The disease spreads quickly from one plant to
the next so it is important to remove infected leaves as soon as
they show. Leaf drop contributes to the spread of the disease
by harboring spores and results in weakening the plant and
increasing susceptibility to winter injury, drought, dieback andse
stem cankers. Flower production will be reduced if the disease
is allowed to spread.
Prevention is the best control for black spot. Leaf litter
should be removed from the area since the spores will overwinter
on infected leaves. Protective fungicidal sprays are
advised. The fungus grows beneath the protection of the leaf
cuticle, making control difficult once the spores have germinated.
Weekly sprays from the time the plant leafs out in the
spring until autumn are advised. Spray both the upper and low
leaf surfaces. Proper pruning will remove spores overwintered
in small cane lesions

Insects and Diseases

Diseases. Sanitation is the best method of reducing
problems that can arise once roses are established. Always
remove prunings, leaf litter and faded flowers; use clean
mulch; keep beds free of weeds; and, of utmost importance,
use clean pruning equipment to reduce transmission of
diseases. The main rose diseases are black spot, stem canker
and powdery mildew.

Pruning bush roses

Pruning bush roses. The steps followed when pruning
bush-type and shrubs roses are: (1) remove all dead wood
down to the crown or 1 inch into healthy green canes; (2)
prune out all signs of canker; (3) remove all weak, spindly or
deformed growth (rule of thumb is to remove anything smaller
than the thickness of a pencil); (4) remove all canes growing
toward the center of the plant; (5) remove all suckers down to
the crown even if it means moving soil aside; and (6) finally,
thin out remaining healthy canes to the desired shape and
height.
Pruning climbers. Everblooming climbers should be
pruned in the spring after danger of frost. Spring-flowering
climbers are pruned after they have flowered. Large-flowered
climbers and climbing hybrid teas are treated in a similar
manner to the bush-type roses. Ramblers and other vigorous
growing climbers are best pruned after they have flowered for
the first time in the spring and occasionally will need to be
shaped once or twice through the summer. Regardless of the
type of climbing rose, follow the first five steps listed for
bush-type roses. Most climbing roses produce canes that
remain healthy for about 3 to 4 years, making it necessary to
remove older growth each season. The canes are cut to a
height of 18 to 30 inches to help shape the plant. Remove old,
faded flowers to encourage subsequent flushes of flowers on
the everblooming types of climbing roses.
This is easily done by picking off the old flower clusters,
leaving the leaves on the short flower-bearing lateral stems.

Pruning Practices

Pruning Practices
Pruning is important for maintaining healthy plants. Proper
pruning will aid in retaining excellent flower quality and size
as well as overall vigor. Pruning removes diseased and insectinfested
growth, weak growth, suckers from rootstocks, and
old canes. The best time to prune roses is in the spring before
new growth appears and after any danger of killing frost. It is
important to use sharp, clean pruning shears. Cleaning the
shears between plants will help reduce transmission of viral
diseases. All cuts should be made at a 45 to 50° angle, about 1⁄4
inch above a healthy bud.
There are three pruning styles, each with a specific
purpose. Heavy or severe pruning is done on well-established,
vigorous plants to produce large, showy flowers. Prune back
to leave three to four healthy canes with three to six eyes per
cane. This normally results in canes that are 6 to 12 inches
above the ground.
Moderate pruning is done on well-established plants. It
will not result in large flowers, but increases production. Prune
to leave five to six healthy canes with at least seven buds per
cane. The stems are pruned back to 12 to 18 inches long.
Light pruning is done to rejuvenate plants after years of
neglect or on newly established plants. Prune to retain about
five to seven canes that are about 18 inches or more in length.
This aids in maintaining maximum photosynthetic area and is
extremely important when rejuvenating rose plants.

Winter protection rose

Winter protection. Kansas gardens need winter protection
since temperatures drop as low as 10 to 15°F for periods of at
least 2 weeks at a time. Roses should be sprayed with a
fungicide first and then covered with loose, well-drained soil
or compost after most of the foliage has dropped. The mound
should be about 8 to l0 inches high. Lay straw or hay over the
soil mound and canes after the first hard freeze to protect the
plant from fluctuating temperatures. Excessively tall canes
should be pruned to a height of 36 inches to prevent being
whipped by strong winter winds. Roses should be covered by
Thanksgiving.
The insulating effect of the mounds often attracts small
rodents that feed on the bark of the canes. Insects and diseases
such as borers, cankers, leaf spots and other fungal diseases
can result from this injury. The biggest problem from winter
protection is mechanical damage to new and old growth when
removing the protection. However, it is better to protect the
plants than lose them from winterkill. Most insects and
diseases can be treated in the spring.

Fertilizing roses

Fertilizing roses. Fertilization of roses is a must to encourage production of large, vigorous basal canes. A standard fertilization program calls for feeding three times per year using a 5-10-5 or similar analysis fertilizer. The first application should be made prior to bud break, at the same
time as spring pruning. The second application should be during the first flowering period. The third application is a late-season fertilization after the first flush of blooms has
faded and flowering has declined—no later than mid-August. Later fertilization will encourage succulent growth which will not be hardened-off by first frost. Roses are susceptible to iron chlorosis, which results in a light-yellow color on the leaves while the vines remain a
darker green. Iron chlorosis is a result of a lack of available iron to the plant. Iron chelate sprayed on the foliage will restore the green color to the foliage in a few days, but foliar
sprays are not long lasting. Acidify the soil around rose bushes by adding powdered sulfur at the rate of 1 to 2 teaspoons incorporated into the soil.

Planting roses. Roses should be planted in the spring as soon as weather and soil conditions are favorable. Never work the soil while it is wet. When preparing the soil, spade to a
depth of 2 feet and add organic matter and fertilizer. Use 2 pounds of a 5-10-5 or similar analysis fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed. Before planting bareroot rose bushes, remove any
broken or diseased roots and prune the remaining roots to 8 to 10 inches long. Canes should be pruned prior to planting. Remove any thin or weak growth; then thin the plant down to
three or four strong canes, leaving five to seven healthy buds. Dig a hole about 18 inches in diameter by 14 inches deep. Mound the soil at the center and spread the roots over the
mound (see illustration). The graft union should be at or slightly below the final soil line.
Add soil until the hole is two-thirds full. Water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots and make good contact without compacting the soil. Allow the water to drain away, finish filling the hole, and water the plant a second time. Build a soil mound to cover two-thirds of the canes to prevent drying of the young lateral buds while the root system is being
established. When new growth is approximately 1 to 2 inches long, remove the soil from around the plant, being careful not to damage any young growth within the soil mound.
When planting container rose bushes, it is not necessary to do any root pruning. However, the canes should be pruned to remove any weak or diseased growth and any broken canes.
Once the plant is prepared, dig a hole at least 8 inches wider than the root ball and deep enough to plant the rose at the proper depth (graft union at or slightly below the soil line).
Again fill the hole two-thirds full with soil, and water the plant thoroughly. Finish filling the hole and water again. With container roses, it is not necessary to mound the soil since a
root system is already present. It is wise to mulch the soil toprevent rapid soil drying.

Rose Culture

Plant selection. Selecting good, healthy plants is important for successful rose growing. Roses are available through catalogs or garden centers for spring planting either as bareroot stock or container plants. Plants should be free of disease and insects; the canes and roots should be thick and healthy, and not cracked, broken or damaged. Bareroot plants should be dormant. If growth has begun, they should be planted immediately. This is not critical with container stock
because there is an established root system for nutrient and water uptake. Locating the rose bed. The rose bed should receive full, direct sunlight for a minimum of 6 hours daily. If shade is
unavoidable, afternoon shade is best. Morning sun is necessary

Polyanthas

Polyanthas. Most rose classifications have absorbed polyanthas into the floribunda class even though the older cultivars are distinctly different. Polyanthas are mostly low growing, continuous-blooming plants, producing large clusters of small flowers.
Heritage. The heritage class is a combination of all the “old” roses that were developed in the nineteenth century. Most are more important in a historical sense than in ahorticultural sense. The principal “old rose” types are Gallica, Damask, Alba, Centifolia (cabbage rose), Moss, Noisette,Bourbon and Musk. The hybrid perpetuals, tea roses and China roses, are from the heritage group of old roses, but their separate classification is often retained because many are still common today.
Shrub roses. This is a miscellaneous group of several wild species, hybrids and cultivars that vary widely botanically and develop large, dense bushes more closely resembling shrubs
used in landscape planting. Most of the shrub roses are vigorous, hardy and resistant to insects and diseases. Their attractive foliage, small flowers and fall seed pods (hips) make
them useful for hedge and screen plantings. Some of the more important and attractive roses in this
class include: Rugosas, Father Hugo rose, Sweetbriers, Nevada, Chestnut, Austrian copper and Kordesii. Tree roses. Tree, or standard, roses are distinctive because
of the form of the plant rather than the type of flower. They are used in formal plantings or to accent a particular part of the garden. Many of the better-known cultivars of bush roses are
available as tree roses. Tree roses are produced by grafting a
bush rose on an upright trunk (standard). The upper graft is difficult to protect during the winter.
Climbing roses. Climbing roses are not botanically true climbing plants since they do not form tendrils for self support. They need to be tied and trained to a trellis, fence, building or other structure. These roses produce long, heavy canes that grow from 8 to 15 feet. Climbers may be everbloomingor spring blooming. Flowers are produced in loose,
open clusters of 5 to 25 blooms and may take 2 years to reach full bloom after planting.
Climbing roses may be classified as climbing hybrid teas, climbing teas, climbing grandifloras, climbing floribundas, climbing polyanthas, large-flowered climbers, pillars, ramblers,
trailing and everblooming. There is much overlapping of
the various classes, and one climber may fit several classes.

Miniature roses

Miniatures. Miniature roses have become popular in recent years. Their small size makes them useful for growing in containers and small gardens. Flowers average about 1 inch in diameter in white and shades of pink, red or yellow. The flowers can be used for miniature arrangements, corsages and boutonnieres. Miniatures are not grafted and many varieties are quite hardy.

Grandifloras

Grandifloras. Grandifloras have some of the characteristics of both hybrid teas and floribundas. Their flowers resemble hybrid teas but are smaller and are produced in groups
of 5 to 7 resembling the cluster effect of floribundas. They bloom more abundantly than hybrid teas, and their longstemmed flowers are also good for cutting. Grandifloras are the tallest of the bush roses, reaching a height of 5 to 6 feet. They require the same degree of winter protection as hybrid teas.

Floribunda roses

Floribundas. Floribunda roses are shorter, more compact and have smaller canes than hybrid teas. Large clusters of small flowers are produced at the tips of the canes. Their showy masses of color and compact growth make them most useful as a landscape rose for bed planting, grouping in shrub
borders, or as a hedge. Floribundas are generally quite vigorous and prolific bloomers. They are generally more hardy and require less care than hybrid teas. Mature plants range from 11⁄2 to 31⁄2 feet tall. A broad range of colors is available in single, semidouble or double flowers.

Hybrid teas rose

Their large flowers make hybrid teas the most popular type of rose. The blooms are borne singly on strong stems and make excellent cut flowers. Colors include pure white and shades of red, lavender, orange, pink, yellow, apricot, crimson, maroon and mauve. Most, but not all, hybrid
teas have some fragrance. Mature hybrid tea roses are 21⁄2 to 5 feet high, depending
on the cultivar and growing conditions. Most cultivars are
semihardy and require winter protection

Classes of Roses

There are two general classifications of roses based on landscape use and growth habit: bush roses and climbing roses. Bush roses are self-supporting and grow upright. They range from 6 inches (miniatures) to 6 feet in height (grandifloras). Climbing roses produce long, vigorous canes that must be provided with support to keep them off the ground. They may
grow to 20 feet or more in length. Bush and climbing roses have many landscape uses.

GROWING ROSES

Few flowers offer such an array of color, size, shape,
fragrance and use as roses. Roses can be used for cut flowers,
drying and preserving, and for landscaping. Although roses
have many uses, they are grown primarily for their beautiful
flowers.
Roses are deciduous woody perennials. They originated in
central Asia millions of years ago and spread over the Northern
Hemisphere. Strangely, no wild roses have been discovered
south of the equator. A fossilized rose found in Colorado
documented that wild roses grew in the Midwest more than 35
million years ago. Native wild roses are still common in
Kansas today.
Most garden roses are hybrids grafted onto a hardy
rootstock. Many hardy roses are as easy to grow as spirea and
privet. Show roses, however, require considerable knowledge,
skill and care. The first step in successful rose growing is to
select a rose species and variety that is adapted to the growing
location, use, personal preference of the grower, and the
amount of time and care one is willing to spend.

Vandaceous Orchids:

The objectives of good orchid culture are to promote robust, disease-free plants with high quality blooms. These goals are especially important for vandaceous orchids which produce quality flowers only from strong plants.

The Vandaceous orchids which we will discuss fall mainly into the genera of Vanda. Ascocentrum and Ascocenda (Vanda X Ascocentrum). For the purpose of culture, we may continue to treat Euanthe sanderiana, the reclassified species from which most of our popular vandaceous hybrids originated, in the genus Vanda.

When considering the cultural requirements of vandaceous plants, it is important to remember that all vandaceous orchids are of monopodial growth habit. This type grows from the tip, or crown, of the plant. Lateral buds are present on the main stem and these may develop into plantlets when the plant has attained sufficient size and strength to support them. In accordance with the growth habit of the main stem, each plantlet will also continue to grow indefinitely from its tip. The inflorescences of vandaceous monopodial orchids emanate from the azils of the leaves which are arranged in two rows or ranks. The stem spaces between leaves are extremely variable in size, from less than an inch to several inches apart.

Vandaceous orchids can be further categorized by leaf shape into three groups with somewhat different cultural needs. These are: strap-leaved, terete, and semi-terete

Strap-leaved plants have flat, leathery leaves. This category includes such vanda species as coerulea, dearei, luzonica, merrillii, tricolor and sanderiana, as well as the ascocentrums.

Terete orchids have tapering, pencil-shaped leaves which are circular in transverse cross-section. The most common species in this group are V. teres and V. hookeriana.

Semi-teretes, as they are referred to here, are a hybrid combination with some terete species in the background. Their leaves are somewhat pencil-shaped and tapered but not always completely round in cross-section.

Cultural requirements can be generally summarized in the five categories of temperature, water or humidity, light, air movement, and fertilizer. We will consider each category individually as it applies to vandaceous orchids:

Temperature

Vandaceous orchids grow best under daytime conditions of 65° or higher (30°C or higher), but can withstand long spells of hot weather and short spells of cold. They will continue in active growth anytime of the year if given warm temperature and bright light. Night temperatures should not generally be lower than 55°F (12°C). We have seen some vandaceous plants withstand temperatures as low as 38°F (4°C) for 2-3 hours with damage to root tips and flower buds, but not to the plant itself. It is most important to protect plants from air movement during brief periods of extreme cold.

Light

The strap-leaved types can be grown indoors, in greenhouse conditions. With high humidity, maximum sunlight should be given with only enough shade to keep the temperature within the appropriate range. For our greenhouses in South Florida we use 46% shade cloth covered with 6 mil plastic on the top and sides of greenhouses, producing about 50% shade.

Terete vandas and their semi-terete hybrids are sun lovers. Not only will they flower year round in tropical areas, they are also floriferous in the subtropics. They can be grown in the full sun and are ideal for landscape use.

Air Movement

In the greenhouse, under summer sun, vigorous air movement from a fan is important to keep leaf temperature down and avoid cell damage from heat. As mentioned previously, it is important to restrict air movement under colder temperatures.

Water

A high daytime humidity is essential, especially on sunny days, and misting once or twice a day in bright weather will be helpful. On hot, sunny days around 80% humidity is appropriate. Water sparingly in winter, during long cloudy spells, or after repotting. In any season, avoid watering plants late in the afternoon. Vandaceous plants should be dry before nightfall.

In addition to the natural ingredients of temperature, air and water, good culture of vandaceous orchids also requires some help from man-made supplies: containers, potting media, insecticides, fungicides, and fertilizers.

Fertilizing

Vandaceous orchids are heavy feeders. Once a week during the growing season, plants should be given a solution of a complete fertilizer. High-nitrogen fertilizers should not be used on vandaceous plants as they will inhibit flowering. All plants should be flushed thoroughly with plain water once a week to remove built-up salts. If using an automatic proportioner, plants may be fertilized as often as daily with a more dilate solution. Whatever feeding plan you follow, remember it is important to be faithful to the regimen you have established.

At our nursery we use Peter's® 20-20-20 (All Purpose)® fertilizer weekly during the growing season. Inside the greenhouse, under a controlled environment, the concentration we use is the standard recommended one of 1 teaspoon per gallon. During the winter, i.e. non-growing season, we apply the same proportions every two weeks rather than weekly. In addition, at every third feeding we substitute Peter's® 10-30-20 (Bloom Booster)®. This substitution applies to plants in all seasons of the year. Further, once a month we add 1/4 teaspoon of SUPERthrive®, a concentrated vitamin and hormone solution for plants, to each gallon of fertilizer solution.

Potting

Vandaceous plants will grow very well in any porous medium if properly aerated. Tree-fern chunks, coarse bark or charcoal are good choices. The roots should not be smothered by tight potting or soggy medium. Wooden baskets are preferred, but pots can be used if drainage is good. If potting in baskets, those made of teakwood are the best choice as they will last the longest. If teakwood is not available, redwood is a good second choice, and cedar a third option. We use 3" teakwood baskets for the first two years after seedling size, 6" baskets for the next two years, and 8" baskets for mature plants. Plants should be suspended so that the aerial roots are free; otherwise, the roots attach themselves to the bench or wall and are damaged when the plants are moved. Recently potted plants should be maintaned under slightly more shaded conditions until they are established.

Because vandaceous plants have large aerial roots, they do not like to be disturbed by removal from their container. Therefore, we "elevate" plants from smaller to large baskets. This step-up procedure is accomplished by soaking the roots briefly in water until they become plible. Roots are then worked through the slats in the larger basket as the old smaller basket and plant are placed intact in the larger basket. Never coil the roots around the old basket because vandaceous plants will feed better with an unrestricted root system. A few large pieces of charcoal can be added to hold the smaller basket securely within the larger, or wiring the smaller basket into the larger will accomplish the same result. This method minimizes shock to the plant and permits continued, uninterrupted growth. Adding SUPERthrive® to the water used to soak the plant will further minimize its shock and seems to encourage faster gtrowth of new roots.

There are occasions, however, when distubing the roots cannot be avoided, e.g. a rotten basket, or repotting of plants grown in pots. These plants should be soaked in water, removed as carefully as possible, and placed in a solution of vitamins/hormones and fungicide, allowed to soak 5 minutes and then potted in a new basket.

The best season for the potting or repotting of vandaceous plants is late spring to early summer, but these orchids may be repotted at almost anytime of the year.

Since Vandaceous orchids grow rapidly with good light, water and regular fertilizing, seedlings should be grown in 3" pots, using a mix of fine charcoal and tree-fern fiber, and loosely potted. Seedlings should be kept in slightly more shaded conditions than mature plants, but included in smae water and fertilizer programs. Humidity and good air movement should be maintained

Vanda

The name Vanda came from Indian language. it means that people like these plants by their fragarance, color and the shape of flower, there are about 80 species plants, native to China, the Himalayas, Indonesia and nothern Australia. Vanda are monopodial orchids, and most are epiphytic. in Java, Indonesia, they can be found on trunks and branches of trees in the jungle. Sometime they grows as a lithophyte on rocks. All Vanda enjoy the light, and with sufficient sunlight the may bloom two or three times a year.

Vandaceous orchids include the genera Vanda, Ascocentrum and Ascocenda (Vanda x Ascocentrum). It is important to remember that all Vandaceous orchids are of monopodial growth habit. That is, they grow from the tip or crown of the plant. The inflorescences appear from the axis of the leaves. Flowers are long lasting and appear in a cluster along the spike.

There are 70 species of the monopodial genus Vanda and they are spread from India in the west to the NE tip of Australia to the south and then north to China. The genus was established by Sir W. Jones in 1795 and his type species is Vanda roxburghii.

There are two distinct types of the genus Vanda, one is the strapleafed variety represented by Vanda Luzonica and the other is the terete leafed variety represented by Vanda teres.

Both types like some direct sun but the terete type requires 3-4 hours minimum of direct sun to flower regularly.

As a rule most Vandas prefer a slat wooden basket with not much medium over the roots and steady water, fertilizer and humidity year round. Most all Vandas appreciate direct sunlight at some time during the day and some can tolerate full sun all day. Generally a plant with more terete [tubular] leaves likes more direct sunlight than a Vanda that is strap leafed or has a "V" shape in cross-section

Tropical Forest in Indonesia

The forests in Indonesia are crucial to life on earth. They serve as powerhouses of the planet and play a vital role in controlling climate and in regulating water cycles. They also provide us with useful food and medicinal plants. The most widespread forests in Indonesia are tropical rain forests. Tropical forests do not only harbor a wealth of diverse flora, they are one of the richest ecosystems on earth in terms of wildlife diversity.
The greater part of the Indonesian archipelago was once covered with tropical rainforest. Today, although a considerable amount of former forest habitat has been lost, it still contains more tropical rain forest than any other country in the Asia-Pacific region. This is estimated to be 1,148,400 square kilometers - including some of the most species rich forests on planet Earth.
Indonesia's species rich forests harbor the worlds greatest diversity of palms (447 species, of which 225 occur nowhere else), more than 400 species of dipterocarp (the most valuable commercial timber trees in Southeast Asia), and an estimated 25,000 species of flowering plants. Indonesia is also rich in wildlife: it ranks first in the world for mammals (515 species, of which 36% are endemic), first for swallowtail butterflies (121 species, of which 44% are endemic), third for reptiles (more than 600 species), fourth for birds (1519 species, of which 28% are endemic), fifth for amphibians (270 species), and seventh for flowering plants.
Recent investigations suggest that some 40 million Indonesians are directly dependent on biological diversity for subsistence. Of these, 12 million people form indigenous (adat) communities who live in and around forests. Living in forest environments for centuries, these communities have developed the wisdom of sustainable exploitation of resources - recognizing the fact that their existence depended on continuous availability of food to collect and hunt. Helping to preserve their cultures and lifestyles is as important as, and related to the conservation of Indonesia's biodiversity.

Tulipa orphanidea Whittallii

Striking species tulip with flowers of burnt orange, blotched slate green at the base. Flowering in April at 8-12” (20-30cm).

Tulipa turkestanica

Charming but robust little species tulip with elegantly held flowers of white & egg-yolk yellow, which open star-shaped. Flowering in April at 8" (20cm).

Tulipa sylvestris

Delightful, sweetly-scented species tulip of golden yellow, tinged green. Flowering March/April at 8-12” (20-30cm).

Tulipa sprengeri

on the outers. This late flowering beauty is easily naturalised in ordinary garden conditions and, unusually for a tulip, grows happily in light woodland conditions. Flowering in early summer at 16" (40cm).

Stocks of bulbs for this species are hard to obtain & scarce. However, the flowers produce abundant seed which can produce flowering size bulbs in 3 years.

Tulipa schrenkii

Brilliant scarlet flowers with a bright yellow edging to the near lily-shaped blooms. This delightful little tulip is the first to flower in our gardens, bearing its cheery blooms through March and into April - a real promise of the tulip season to come. Ht.6" (15cm).

Tulipa Praestans Unicum

A double value variety – the broadly yellow edged foliage making a fine display even before the bright scarlet flowers appear. A cheering sight when flowering in April at 8" (20cm).

Tulipa kolpakowskiana

Cheerful little species tulip with bright yellow flowers, boldly streaked carmine-red. Flowering in April at 4-6" (10-15cm).

Tulipa humilis var. pulchella ‘Persian Pearl’

Lovely species hybrid with flowers of magenta rose with green tints. Flowering in March at 4-6” (10-15cm)

Tulipa humilis var. pulchella ‘Odalisque

Claret coloured flowers with yellow-based centres mark this attractive hybrid. Flowering in March at 4" (10cm).

Tulipa humilis albocaerulea

Sought-after species tulip. The stunning flowers are white with a steel blue base and are fragrant. April flowering at 4-6” (10-15cm).

Tulipa clusiana 'Lady Jane'

Stunningly pretty new hybrid - a paler version of the true species, with pale pink on the outer petals ad pure white with violet centre within. Makes a wonderful show when planted en-masse. Flowering in April at 10" (25cm).

Bulb size 6+cm

Tulipa clusiana

The Lady Tulip – a charming species with bicoloured flowers of white/carmine red. This, the true species, is now hard to come by, with bulb production centred on the newer hybrids.

Truly elegant species and wonderful planted in drifts.

Flowers in April/May at 10" (25cm).

Tulipa clusiana 'Cynthia'

Charming hybrid of the 'Lady tulip', with crimson flowers edged creamy-yellow & the same subtle shade within. Flowers in April at 8-10" (20-25cm).

Tulipa bakeri ‘Lilac Wonder’

Lovely cultivar of a species tulip, making a striking mid-spring display at the front of the border. The mauve-pink flowers have a yellow throat for a colour combination that really glows.

Flowers in April at 6-8" (15-20cm).

Tulipa acuminata

Unique in its appearance, this tulip sports narrow, tapering petals which are yellow with irregular red flaming. Flowers in April at 20" (50cm).

This is a tulip which needs careful placement to ensure that its effect is not overpowered by its surroundings. Giving it a background of dark foliage can be successful.

Tulips - Species & Hybrids

These are the tulips which occur naturally in the wild and the variations which have been bred from them. In the open garden, their diminutive size means they may lack impact and they need to be found suitable places for their subtle charms to be appreciated. Having placed them carefully, it will be found that they are the most reliable of tulips for not only returning year on year but also building up into respectable-sized colonies.

Tulipa batalinii Apricot Jewel

These vibrant flowers are deep apricot-orange on the outside and golden-yellow on the inside. Bulb size: 5 to 6 cm. April/May. 6". HZ: 4-8.

Tulipa bakeri Lilac Wonder

Preferring a warm, sunny spot, this cheerful tulip has large, rose-lilac flowers with contrasting yellow bases and anthers. Bulb size: 5 to 6 cm. May. 7". HZ: 5-8.

Pteroceras semiteretifolium

A new species found in Vietnam as a hot growing, miniature, monopodial epiphyte that blooms on multiple, single flowered inflorescence at any time of the year. The orchid produced 8 cm fan shaped growths, with fat semi terete 5 cm leaves, multiple single flowered spikes carry a flat 2 cm bloom, the rounded sepals and petals are creamy white with a white lip with yellow and red spotting.

Psymorchis pusilla

This species bears large yellow flowers with red spots on the petals. The flowers are produced singly in succession at the apex in spring and summer. The plants have a short live span, 5 to 8 years in their natural habitat.

Psymorchis pusilla

There are four species of this genus distributed from Mexico to Brazil and Bolivia. This genus is characterized by the fan shaped plant with flattened leaves. The flowers are quite large in proportion to the size of the plants. Intermediate condition.

Promenaea stapelioides

Native from southern Brazil, the plant develops clusters of small, rounded pseudobulbs with short grey green leaves. One or two flowers are produced on a short stem. They are quite large for the size of the plant. The sepals and petals are greenish yellow, heavily barred and spotted with deep purple. The lip is dark purple, almost black. Summer flowering.

Promenaea xanthina

Also from southern Brazil, this species is easy to grow an flower. The 5 cm flowers are lemon yellow with a few tiny red spots on the lip and petals. Spring bloomer.

Promenaea

Promenaea is a genus of 14 species from central and southern Brazil. The genus is charaterized by the proeminent pseudobulbs surrounded at the base by foliaceous sheaths, the leaves lightly veined. The plants are short, compact and produce many flowers, they are epiphytic and grow best in intermediate conditions.

Pomatocalpa setulence

The pendant inflorescence produce many densely small yellow flowers in spring from the lower leaf axils. The plant is best mounted on a slab because of the manner of which the flowers are presented.

Pomatocalpa

Pomatocalpa comprises about 40 species distributed throughout tropical Asia. Numerous yellow to green flowers are typically produced on large, branched inflorescences above medium size monopodial plants. The species should be grown like other Vanda relatives with warm temperatures, even watering throughout the year and bright light.

Polystachya pubescens

From South Africa, this is an attractive and easy to grown species. The inflorescence arises between the leaves on the young developing pseudobulb. The flowers, up to 12, are a bright yellow, lined with red streaks on the surface of the lateral sepals. The species flowers in late fall and early winter under intermediate condition. Light shade.

Polystachya

This is a large genus of about 150 species, mostly found in Africa with a few from Madagascar, Asia and America. Most of the plants are rather small with pseudobulbs of various shapes. The flowers are also small, in a wide variety of colors. The plants are easily maintained in small or medium size pots in a moisture retentive compost. They need warm or cool conditions depending on their origin.

Pleurothallis sp.

Notice the tiny yellow and burgundy flower at the right of the penny. Flowering occur in early spring and late summer.

Pleurothallis grobyi

Frequent throughout the American tropics, this species produce small white, membranous flowers in a loose raceme held beyond the small, clumped plant of variously shaped leaves.

Pleurothallis pterophora

From Brazil, this is a small plant without pseudobulbs. The slender erect stems, very close together bear an apical leaf, coriaceous, spotted brown underneath. The stiff, erect inflorescence is composed with many small, delicate white flowers with a sweet fragrance. The orchid may flower several time a year.

Pleurothallis

Over a 1000 species of this genus are found throughout the American tropics. The plants vary in size from miniature to huge, epiphytic to terrestrial, short to tall, erect to pendant, clumped to creeping, thick or thin leaves and single flowered to many flowered racemes. The flowers vary from coarse to delicate. There are species that thrive in warm, intermediate, or cool greenhouse conditions, some can be grows dry, while other must be grown wet

Phragmipedium Eric Young

This hybrid is a cross between phrag. longifolium x phrag. besseae flavum. The branching spike open in succession for more than two months. The flowers have shades ranging from light yellow to light red.

Phragmipedium

The plants of this genus are fairly large terrestrials, some are epiphytes or lithophytes. Most species are found in the mountains at 900 to 1500m of altitude, some are found near sea level. The plants produce erect flower spikes that emerge from the center of the leaves. The flowers open in succession, some species bloom all at once. They can stay in bloom for months.

Paph. villosum x sib. China Form

Native from Burma and Yunnan, China. This is one of the plain leaved species, it has solitary, glossy greenish yellow flowers overlaid with reddish brown. The plant flower in midwinter to early spring.

Paphiopedilum primulinum

This species is endemic to northern Sumatra. It have the habit of producing one flower after the other in slow sequential progression. As a result, the inflorescence may stay in flower for years. The small flowers are a delicate pale yellow green.

Paphiopedilum Pinocchio

The small delicate green flower have a rose pouch and a reddish border to the petals. This is a multiflora that produces flowers sequentially over a long period.

Paph. Maudiae Silver Swan x Paph. Laurenceanum V. Hyeanum Tradition

A pleasing hybrid producing flower with an apple green pouch and a large white dorsal sepal striped with green. Flowering occur in spring.

Paph. Holdenii Maudiae x Paph. Callosum

The flower are deep purple with a green and purple striped white dorsal. The flower appear in late spring above richly green mottled leaves.

Paphiopedilum Delophylum

The two or three flowered inflorescences are produced in early winter above mottled leaves. The flower have a lusted pink pouch, the dorsal is almost white, the pink petals are purple spotted.

Paph. bellatum Colorgarde x Paph. niveum Ponkan AM/AOS

This hybrid produce round, white yellow flower with purple spotting on the petals. The solitary flower is borne above richly dark green mottled narrow leaves that have solid purple undersurfaces.

Phalaenopsis hybrids

The popularity of phalaenopsis has increased in recent years as they are easy to grow and bloom. They can produce flowers all year round and are very long lasting. The flowers varied in size and color, some come with stripes, spotted or veined. Many hybrids are being grown successfully indoors, under artificial light, in a windowsill. All they need is a warm temperature, medium bright light, good humidity and air circulation, regular watering. And like the Phalaenopsis species, they too, need a 10ºC difference at night time in the fall to induce the flowers

Paphiopedilum

About 60 species are found in the Asian tropics, from India to New Guinea and the Philippines. Also known as "lady's slippers" because of their pouch like lips. Paphiopedilums produce beautiful mottled foliage without pseudobulbs, their distinctly flowers are borne singly on mostly tall stems. These orchids like to be warm, moist and shady conditions. They can be watered all year round. Indoor culture suits them well and they are often cultivate alongside phalaenopsis. Keep plants in a small spot as possible and avoid getting water into the center of the growths.

Ornithocephalus gladiatus

Found from Mexico to Panama, the West Indies and from Trinidad to Brazil, Colombia, Peru and Bolivia as a miniature fan shaped orchid. The orchid bloom in the summer and fall on an erect, axillary inflorescence with several white flowers that is just longer than the leaves. This species required some shade, humid conditions with even year round watering.

Ornithocephalus gladiatus

This genus has about 50 epiphytic fan shaped species spread across the tropical Americas. Intermediate to warm conditions with some shade. They do best mounted on cork bark and allowed the roots to dry between watering. They have no pseudobulbs and the fleshy leaves are arranged in a basally rooting fan shape and has multiple, bracted inflorescence that can arise more than once a year

Oncidium Sharry Baby "Sweet Fragance"

Bears long sprays of very fragrant white flowers with red markings. The scent is a combination of vanilla and chocolate. Very floriferous and easy to grow.

Howeara Lava Burst "Puanani" (Oncidium X Leochilus X Rodriguezia)

Bright red flowers on several branching spikes per growth. Heat tolerant and a fast grower. Plants can stay in bloom for 6 to 8 weeks and bloom more than once a year. Intermediate condition

Oncidium papilio

From Venezuela, often referred to as the butterfly orchid. The flower of this species open on the end of of a long slender stem and sway in the slightest air movement. Only one flower opens at any one time, but in succession, so that the plant flower for many months. The flower is yellow and brown on the lip with stripes of chestnut on the petals and sports what looks like three antennas. The orchid grow well under intermediate conditions with lot of bright light. Do not cut down the stem as it blooms from the same flower stem

Oncidium ornithorhynchum

From Mexico to Columbia, the plant have clustered pseudobulbs that are compressed, two leaves at the apex and sheathing leaves around the base. The inflorescence reaches 60 centimeters long, with elongate branches from the nodes above the middle. Each branch has 5 to 15 flowers. The 2 cm flowers has pink sepals and petals, the lip is three lobed. This plant prefer cooler conditions and flower in autumn.

Oncidium Maliwan

This one too is another miniature hybrid. The plant have elongate rhizomes between leaf clusters and the pseudobulbs are reduced to absent. The 3 to 5 leaves are narrow, thick and overlapping at the base. The inflorescence is erect and produces many white flowers with brown markings. Flowering occur in summer. Intermediate conditions.

Oncidium isthmii

Found in Panama and Costa Rica, this is a medium size epiphyte with clusters of compressed, ridged pseudobulbs. The long pointed leaves are carried at the top of the pseudobulb. The branching inflorescence bears many yellow flowers with brown markings. The orchid blooms in the fall under intermediate conditions, year round watering, but reduced in winter

Oncidium Ever spring ( Onc. Golden gem x Onc. leucochilum )

Miniature hybrid about 10 cm tall. The inflorescence, emerge from the base of the small pseudobulbs, produces from 6 to 8 small yellow flowers, marked with orange brown spots. Very long lasting, the orchid flower more than once a year. Intermediate conditions.

Oncidium

Oncidium is a large genus with more than 600 species distributed throughout the Central America. The genus is similar in appearance to odontoglossum, to which they are related. Oncidium produces a tall, slender stem that branch out at the top to produce a shower of bright yellow flowers. The sepals and petals are small, but superimposed by an enlarged lip. The plants grow in spring and summer, flower in autumn and rest in winter. Evergreen. Most species can be cultivated under intermediate conditions with bright light, well drained media and with abundant water all year.

Odontioda Charlesworthii

The inflorescence of this hybrid bear many red flowers, the lip is white with a yellow orange center. The flowers last for about month and a haft. Intermediate to cool conditions. Spring bloomer. It is a cross between Cochlioda noezliana and Oncidium incurvum

Odontioda

Odontioda is a result obtained from crossing an Odontoglossum with a Cochlioda. Like their parents, odontioda are epiphytic and have pseudobulbs closely grouped on the rhizome with two leaves at the apex. The leaves are linear, lanceolate and flexible. Variable in shape and color, the flowers open in succession and last a long time.

Neostylis Lou Snearly "Sky King"

This lovely hybrid is a cross between neofinetia and rhynchostylis. The leave are linear, alternate and stiff. The erect axillary inflorescence produced many pink fuchsia flowers, with a white center, which are curved toward the back. The flowers have a sweet citrus fragrance and are long lasting. The orchid flower in summer and can be cultivated under intermediate condition.

Neofinetia falcata

Miniature plant about 10 cm in height. The plant have stiff and linear bright green leaves. The inflorescence bear many white flowers with a long, thin and curved spur. The flowers have a strong, sweet almond fragrance. Flowering is primarily during the summer

Neofinetia

Native from Japan and Korea where it grows as a lythophyte and an epiphyte. The plants have two ranked leaves forming a fan shape appearance. Neofinetia should be given intermediate temperatures. medium bright light and even watering. The plant do not like to dry out fully between watering

Meiracyllium wendlandii

From Mexico to El Salvador, the orchid produces attractive purplish flowers about 1.5 cm across in the fall. The flowers have a nice cinnamon fragrance in daytime.